Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

[Roby]

Hi all,

I'm in the middle of diagnosing my smoking 3.1 td and have disconnected the intercooler and breather pipe to leave an open manifold. I have started the engine and noted that it ran immediately after being stood for 6 months. Also, it burned off smoke for around 1 minute and then cleared completely. It idled smoothly, despite having no intake system attached and when I revved it, the exhaust remained clear.
However, the turbo spat oil out when revved so I guess this needs looking at. Also, after leaving the car for a couple of hours, it started again with a small puff of smoke and then immediately clear. I also have a none functioning alternator and was intending to put a multimeter accross it but the heavens opened this week and I havn't had the chance yet. Anyway, after several days I started it up again and it burned off oil for about a minute again.
So, my guess is that oil is getting into the chambers whilest stationary and I think that this means valve stem oil seals or could it be the head gasket...or both?
I need to keep an eye on cost here, though I can do all the work myself, I was wondering if it was worth stripping off the head or whether to just replace the valve stem seals without disturbing the head.

I just wondered if anyone else has had this experience and what they found to be the most economical approach. Maybe even replace the motor or abandon the vehicle altogether. It's not like these are it's only problems as it needs some welding at the rear plus rear shocks and the fuel tank leaks from the return pipe when running. Even the number plate light hangs down because the bracket has rusted away under the plastic outer lip! This vehicle is on a J plate too, though is a 'new' shape Trooper. I really like the vehicle and find it a great work-horse, but I'm dithering over the ecconomics of repair now...

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Rob.
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[Google]

[Chris B]

It sounds like stem seals to me ... if it were the head gasket they usually smoke while its running.
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Isuzu Rodeo Denver Max LE | 265/65R18 BF Goodrich AT               LTM No.60

[Roby]

thanks Chris,

That's a good point. I think I'll try and do the stem seals without removing the head in this case. I believe it can be done so long as each piston is brought to TDC. Since I don't have a manual, as I look at the engine from in front of the fan, do you know what is the cylinder order I'm looking at, and also what is the firing order?
Other than what I have described, there does not seem to be a problem starting or running and it idles smoothly without missing a beat. Also, it does not consume any water. I'm much more enthusiastic now and I'll give it a go.

Many thanks,
Rob.
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[jonkem]

Personally I'd look at the turbo issue first as that can be the most expensive part.
Yes, sounds like stem seals, but they can run like that for years with no real problem.
Check the oil drain down pipe below the turbo which can become blocked and cause the oil to come through the turbo oil seal. If the turbo is chucking oil into the inlet tract in quite large quantity it will need replacing.
Front is #1 & I think the order is the same as 2.8 being 1 - 3 - 4 - 2.
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1994 KZJ70 Cruiser (currently filling the garage and causing some head scratching)
1988 MKI 3.1td Hybrid Van (Ex Bobtail)
1991 SWB Fronty 2.8td Hybrid
2000 Astra Estate (work)
2006 VXR Astra
MK1 SR Nova

[Roby]

Yep, the turbo is likely to be the most expensive part. Even though I can rebuild them myself, getting the replacment parts can be difficult and expensive. I have a couple of other similar sized turbos that I may be able to use if I fab a new down-pipe but I'd rather sort out the original...
I'll check the oil return too as it really is gushing oil out when revved. Although I have played around with turbos and conversions, I have never seen one spray out oil quite so readily as this one does!!! I think it's a combination of failures, ie the return pipe and the turbo...

I just wanted to find out if the rest of the motor is in good enough condition to warrant me spending time and money on the turbo. If I have to take off the head then this means getting it skimmed, but if the valves and valve seats look hammered then I'll want to replace those too...then there's the piston rings...!!! Where would it end ????

I've pretty much decided that if it's more than valve stem seals and turbo, then I aint going any further and it can be scrapped. So, the cheapest approach is to do the valve stem seals first and see if it will run without burning oil the way it is now, and then move onto the turbo. It's gonna be a pain in the *beep* to do them 'in situe', but it's only my time that it's taking up...ho-hum!

I'll see soon enough when my garage is free again and I can get it inside. It's one of those 'projects' that will get done eventually...right now I have a vw bus to finish prep and spray, then a bug to put floors into...

Thanks for the great help guys,

Rob.
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www.thunderacing.co.uk

[Roby]

the latest...

I have removed the EGR valves and although they are heavily carboned up, they do still operate. Having seen other posts about these on diesel engines, I will disconect the vaccum pipes and leave them permanently shut.
Next, I have removed the EGR pipe and it is seriously oily! This is the solid pipe that extends from the exhaust manifold, over the engine and onto the EGR valves. I noticed that the rocker breather pipe branches onto the inlet manifold opposite one of the EGR valves, and this one was very oily compared to the other one that was just carbonised. I expect that a lot of oil has been pushing through here...
I have yet to remove the rocker cover and examine the valve stem seals because I am currently wrestling with removing the turbo. What a nightmare this is to un-bolt! Currently, I have both water pipes off, the oil feed off and all the exhaust down pipe bolts off.
What remains is one of the bolts holding the oil return pipe on, and 2 of the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold. These just seem to be virtually inaccessible and I have given up for now due to blood loss on my fore-arms. The battery tray edge is bloody sharp, I can tell you!!!

Any handy hints at this stage would be appreciated...

Cheers,
Rob.
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